After scouring the ‘net for shock mounts suitable for a condenser microphone, we’ve come up with an alternative way to make your own suspended microphone shock mount, which can be used upright or inverted. This primarily is due to our sE Electronics X1 microphone being of a wider diameter than most shock mounts (57mm in this case) – most shock mounts on Ebay are the more common 40-44mm diameter.

Shopping list:

  • 1x Gutter pipe bracket (approx 4 1/2″ / 115mm diameter) – £1.39
  • 2x Jubilee / Hose clips (20-40mm sized, to make a larger custom up to 80mm diameter) – £1.99
  • 8x Elastic (non-metal) Black / Coloured elastic hair bands – £1.75
  • 4x Cistern linkage pack (1 long / 1 short per pack) – £1 each (£4)
  • 1x Mic Clip (dynamic mic clip ideal)*
  • Self-adhesive foam pad – £1
  • Small Zip tags – £2

Total: £13.13

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parts-2
Time: couple of hours max

* we had one knocking around, best bet is Ebay for £1

Tools needed:

  • Drill + 3mm drill bit
  • Tape measure
  • Junior hacksaw

1. Get your gutter pipe bracket, and lay on a sheet of paper (lined may help), and find the ‘level’ point (may be a couple of square angles on it). Draw around the outer edge.

outer-measure-1

2. Remove the bracket from the paper. Measure the centre point of the bracket so you end up with a 90º centre mark. Now you can go between these marks to get 45º marks, where the cistern clips will go.

 

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3. Using masking tape, apply a strip around the edge of the bracket, and then position back in place on the paper as before.

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4. Mark on the masking tape the 45º marks on the clip, and then mark twice (1/4″ / 6mm). Mark two additional crosshairs 3mm either side, making a total of 4 marks per 45º. These will help with the zip tags shortly.

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5. Drill the 16 holes (4 at each 45º mark), using the 3mm drill. De-burr using a larger drill bit or a countersink (or a sharp knife).

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6. With the junior hacksaw, cut 4x ‘V’s on the outer edge of the bracket, where the cistern clip will sit between the holes you’ve just drilled. Then carefully slowly use the side of your 3mm drill bit to ‘smooth’ the trough, rounding it so the clip stays.

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7. Depending on your mic size, use the long / short clip with the ‘closed’ hook loop pointing down. Attach with 2x zip tags to keep in place. Cut off the loose end of the zip tag (leave a small bit within, to ensure the zip tag stays in place). Do this with the other 3 positions.

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8. With the jubilee clips, undo them so they are separate strips. Join one of the clips to the other to create a larger ‘open’ loop. Thread 4x hair bands onto the clip, and then connect the open end together.

9. Get a rough size of diameter needed by loosening/tightening the screws, to get over the base or head of your microphone. Leave about 3-4mm clearance between the double-jubilee clip and your microphone.

10. Take the clip back off the microphone, and cutting a strip of foam pad stick it to the inside of the clip. You can have the bands in place under the foam pad (so stuck in place) or free moving – this is totally up to you.

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11. Carefully slide the foam-lined clip over your microphone – it should fit snug but can be adjusted. Arrange the black bands at the 45º positions to your microphone. Once all set up, you can tighten the screws to ensure a solid grip, without damaging the surface of your microphone.

mic-clip-ring

12. Position your microphone in the centre of the bracket. Taking each band in turn, slide the band over each hook/loop of the cistern clip, making it pull on top and bottom loops. Go round each clip in turn.

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13. Take another hair band, and slide it over one of the cistern clip loops, then slide it directly over the top of microphone and continue to the opposite cistern clip loop. Repeat with the other two clips, so you create an ‘X’ loop. Do the same on the bottom loops (making hair band total of 8).

14. Taking your mic clip, unscrew the nut and bolt and remove the holder part, leaving the stand screw part. The bracket should be approx the same width. Drill a hole big enough (but not too big) so you can pass the bolt through the bracket, and back into the nut. Tighten accordingly.

15. Check for stability all round by rotating the bracket upside-down and right-way-up. This ensures that if you needed to have an inverted shock mount position you are able to use this DIY one for such circumstances.

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16. Screw your new shock mount onto your stand, connect your microphone up and away you go!

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